Stephan Siegrist :
I live for mountain climbing! It’s the love of nature that pulls me to the summit. I like the simple life on the mountain, living in tune with the elements. This passion burns bright inside of me. It’s what incites me, every day.
Three decades after the first ascent, alpinist Stephan Siegrist leads an expedition to retrace the steps of the climbers who first topped the classic Swiss ice route Crack Baby (IV WI6; 350m).
Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Huber and his brother Alexander want to open a new route on the north face of the Eiger in memory of their climbing friends who died in an accident: "In Memoriam". Along their way through the wall, the three reflect on their memories of all the great climbers and friends who are no longer with them, but who celebrated some of their greatest triumphs here on the legendary north face.
Swiss alpinists Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf and Stephan Siegrist succeed in making the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed pillar Kirti-Nose via their route Between two Parties.
This is Stephan Siegrist’s 19th expedition to Patagonia but his first to the northern inland ice. It poses great challenges for the professional alpinist and his climbing partners Nicolas Hojac and Lukas Hinterberger, but the Swiss trio is rewarded with a grand new route on the 2600-meter-high Cerro Cachet.
Roger Schaeli and I were the first to successfully climb Silverback, a new route on the west face of the Rotbrätt on Jungfrau in June 2019.
On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
The Swiss professional alpinist and Mammut Pro Team athlete Stephan Siegrist realized an extraordinary balancing act in the summit region of Kilimanjaro. He set a world record by walking a highline at 5,700 meters above sea level.
The sunlight then suddenly shines through the "Martinsloch", a triangular window in the rock face, casting a beam of light over the lanes and rooftops of the village of Elm in the Swiss canton of Glarus.
In September and October 2015 Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of Bhala (5.900m), Tupendeo (5.700m) and Maha Dev Phobrang (5.900m) and its famous Te tower, three hitherto unclimbed mountains in the Kashmir region of India's Himalaya.
In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be only the mountains second ascent.
Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Ralf Weber have successfully climbed Cerro Stanhardt, the northermost summit of Patagonia's Cerro Torre group, in winter and in alpine style via the classic Exocet route.
An intense three day trip to make best use of the good weather window - completely unexpected - and success was in the bag even before the music had started playing. This is what happened to Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf from Germany who on 3 August found themselves on the summit of Torre Egger after having departed from Switzerland just over a week beforehand.
Stephan Siegrist completed another alpine premiere: Together with Ralph Weber and Thomas Theurillat, Siegrist red pointed the route Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North face's Mushroom. Then he jumped 1000 meters into the void
One of the most beautiful moments in my mountaineering career was finally setting foot on Queen Maud Land. Our dream became a reality.
In September, Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf, Ralph Weber and I, accompanied by the young Croatian photographer Zvonimir Pisonic and the American Rob Frost (who filmed the expedition), traveled to the north face of Thalay Sagar. Since Zvonimir spoke Croatian; Rob, English; Denis, French; and the rest of us, German, we had a team reminiscent of the Tower of Babel: six people and five different languages.
Ueli Steck and myself know these mountains off the back of our hand, having spent almost five weeks non-stop on the Eiger last year. The long bivy nights on the face consisted of scheming out new plans: Eiger North Face, Mönch North Face plus the Jungfrau North Face all in one.
La vida es silbar
Thanks to the continuous run of good weather this summer, Ueli Steck and I managed to redpoint La Vida es Silbar (V 7c, 900m) on June 29-30, 2003. The dream was finally fulfilled! During the climb we had to pull the rope three times, the consequence of falls. Thus, the first sixteen pitches took us twelve hours. It was 9 p.m. before we could make ourselves comfortable at the Czech Bivouac.
Ueli and Stephan returned repeatedly to the route they equipped in 2003. While climbing the route La Vida es Silbar (Anker/Siegrist, 2000), Stephan saw the possibility of another logical and separate line on the face. In 2001, Raul Bayard and Stephan Siegrist drilled the route’s first holes.
In the summer of 2002, the Eiger North Face was climbed in an exceptional manner: On August 17th and 18th, two mountaineers climbed the face with equipment from back in the day.
In the year between the two “La vida” ascents an event took place that had important consequences for Stephan Siegrist’s career: the TV show “Eiger live” on the Swiss Television network, when in September 1999 for the first time a TV camera accompanied two teams up the North Face of the Eiger on the 1938 route.